Hockey Jersey U - Lesson 3 - Timeline Accurate Sweaters

Timeline Accurate Sweaters

     As promised in the previous post, dated 10 Oct, today on “Hockey Jersey U” we will be discussing timeline correct (historically accurate) jerseys (sweaters). If you want to show-off a hockey sweater that people will envy and respect, you will want to make sure it is timeline correct. For collectors like me, few things make us laugh harder than seeing someone sporting a timeline incorrect jersey. We have all seen someone wearing one at one time or another, you know, that person with Reebok Blackhawks jersey that has #21 Makita on it… Or, an Authentic Air-Knit Devils jersey with a 1995 Stanley Cup Patch on it… Or, an Authentic Air-Knit Hawks jersey with an NHL 75th Anniversary patch on it… You get the idea.

     In short, whether you are buying a jersey that has already been customized, or you are going to have it done after the fact, there are a few rules you should follow (if you do not want to be laughed at). First, DO NOT put a player’s name and number on a jersey he did not wear. I.e. Makita #21 on a RBK jersey. Second, make sure the brand of jersey and the jersey material are correct. Third, do not slap patches on a jersey that they do not belong on. For example, do not put an NHL 2000 patch on a CCM, KOHO, or Starter Rangers jersey. The Rangers wore Pro Player brand during the 99-00 season (as did many other NHL teams). Lastly, for God's sake, PLEASE do not put your own name on the back on an NHL sweater!!! Only a complete TOOL does that!!!

     If you are going to customize a sweater, know what you are doing, otherwise you will end up looking like a complete idiot. With just a few minutes of time on Google, you can find out what seasons a particular player was with a team, the brand of jersey they wore, the material they were made out of, any special patches they wore, and whether the player was a Captain or Alt Captain. Spending a few minutes to research will save you a lifetime of being laughed at.

     When buying or customizing an authentic sweater, you had better be darn sure you are doing it 100% timeline correct, if not you are wasting your money, because in the end your jersey will be worth absolutely SQUAT. If you are lucky enough to acquire… lets say, an early 1990’s Blackhawks Ultrafil jersey, and you want to get it customized… First, look at my previous post so you can be sure of what you have, and then start doing your research. You would want to know that the Hawks only wore Ultrafil through the 1992-93 seasons. If the hem has the CCM logo, AND the black and orange NHL Shield, then you know that the jersey was made / worn after 1990. Now you have roughly a 3-year window to work within. Find out what players were on the team during that timeframe, what their number was, if a “C” or “A” was worn, etc… For early 1990’s Ultrafils (excluding a couple of teams and years), you will also need to make sure the name is stitched on to a matching Ultrafil Name-Bar. Regardless the year or model of an authentic, if it has a name-bar, the name-bar will always be made of the exact same material as the jersey. Air-Knit jerseys have Air-Knit Name-Bars. Ultrafil jerseys have Ultrafil Name-Bars, period.

     Now that you have the basic understanding of what will fly, and what will not, let us talk about what not to buy / do. There are a couple of frauds on Feebay for example, who will slap just about anything on any jersey, and insist in their auction ads that the jerseys are authentic. For example, there is one particular seller that goes by locker room… something or other, who likes to slap NHL 75th Anniversary patches (1991-92 season) and / or Stanley Cup 100th Anniversary patches (1992-93 season) on Air-Knit Chicago Blackhawks jerseys, and call them “Authentic.” While the jersey itself may be authentic, once a patch that does not belong on that particular jersey is added, it renders the jersey timeline incorrect, period! The Hawks, as discussed earlier, wore Ultrafil jerseys until the 1993-94 season. Get the picture…??? Do not get burned! No matter how cool and polished their auction ads look, it does not mean they are honest sellers, or even know what they are talking about in the first place for that matter.

     Bottom line… If you are customizing an “Authentic,” do it right. If you are customizing a “Replica,” you have a little less control over the accuracy, remember I said a LITTLE less. i.e., you cannot always find an Ultrafil replica all of the time (although they are out there). Otherwise, at least make sure the rest is correct. Make sure the jersey brand is correct, the patches are correct, etc… Do not spend money on a worthless jersey that everyone will laugh at! Class dismissed!       

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As always, please be sure to visit my jersey sales sites for some great rare and vintage authentic and replica finds!  

http://goon-gear.ecrater.com/

http://www.bonanza.com/booths/goon_gear

http://www.ioffer.com/selling/goongear

http://www.upillar.com/listings/150839-2001-nhl-stanley-cup-finals-hockey-jersey-colorado-avalanche-adam-foote-52 
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Hockey Jersey U - Lesson Two (Authentic vs. Replica)

Authentic vs. replica

     Critical to today’s lesson here at “Hockey Jersey U” is one item in particular. I would like to remind everyone (place into context) per my initial post, I only deal in pre-RBK jerseys. That is, I only deal in CCM, KOHO, Pro Player, Starter, Bauer, etc… RBK jerseys are paper-thin, low-quality, poorly constructed pieces of garbage, PERIOD! RBK jerseys are for bandwagon jumpers and children. No self respecting old school fan would be caught dead wearing a Reebok rag. You would be better off buying an Asian sweatshop counterfeit. Now that the introductory rant is out of the way, let us get down to business.

     Believe it or not, there are those among us who do not know, or cannot tell the difference between a replica NHL sweater and an authentic on ice game jersey, thus the subject of today’s lesson. As I like to use the counterfeit-ridden cesspool that is FeeBay as a teaching tool, I will continue to do so for this class as well. One thing that makes me laugh is when I see a listing for a hockey jersey that says “Authentic Replica”… There is no such thing as an authentic replica, period. A hockey jersey (sweater) is either an authentic, or it is a replica. It is not, and cannot be both. Today we will discuss some of the differences between the two.

Authentic On Ice Game Jerseys

     Authentic On Ice Game Jerseys are identical in every way to the jerseys players actually wore on the ice (I use past tense as I only deal in pre RBK garbage, remember…???). Jerseys in which I specialize, i.e. up to and including the 2003-04 NHL season, will be used as today’s example.

There are several common characteristics that all authentic jerseys share, and a few they do not. The ones they do not share are largely due to the year of manufacturing, and the different brands, which we will discuss shortly. 

     Let us start with the shared characteristics… First, virtually all on ice game jerseys have the following: Double-layered shoulders, double-layered elbows, double-stitched seams, 2 inch hem, a tie-down strap (aka a “fight strap”), and the manufacturer’s logo and / or NHL Shield embroidered all of the way through the material of the rear hem. There is one exception to the latter; The NHL Shield was not place on the hem next to the manufacturer’s logo until the 1990-91 season. Just to be clear, before the 90-91 season, the only thing on the hems of authentic jerseys was the manufacturer’s logo. As Authentic jerseys are concerned, that is one easy method to identify the age grouping of your jersey. Most will also include a tag inside of the collar area that says “Authentic On Ice Game Jersey” or “Authentic Collection” if the jersey was made after 1990. Before 1990, there was usually only a single manufacturer’s tag with a handwritten numerical size on it.  

     Not all teams wore the same type of jersey either. For example, in the early 1990’s some teams wore Heavyweight Ultrafil jerseys (a collectors favorite kind), and some teams wore Air-Knit jerseys. Montreal was the last team to give up their Ultrafils, as they wore theirs into the early 2000’s until the switch to RBK. Some teams like the Chicago Blackhawks, wore Ultrafil jerseys through the 1992-93 season, then switched to Air Knit. Yet other teams like the Sharks, who entered the league at the start of the 1991-92 season went straight to Air-knit jerseys, even though Ultrafil jerseys were still widely available and in use. Whether we are talking about Air-Knit or Ultrafil, virtually all of the characteristics that allow one to identify an “Authentic On Ice Game Jersey are the same.” Two differences regarding the NHL Shield and manufacturer’s logo on the hem took place for the 1999-00 season, and again for the 2000-01 season.

    

     While many teams in the league opted for the use of “Pro Player” brand jerseys, there were still some teams that stayed with the CCM brand. Regardless the brand, the start of the 1999-00 NHL season brought with it a new NHL Shield. Next to the manufacturer’s logo would now be a silver and black NHL Shield, which replaced the traditional orange and black one. The 1999-00 season would also be the ONLY season that the new NHL shield would share space with the manufacturer’s logo on the hems on NHL jerseys. Beginning with the 2000-01 NHL season (to the present), the new silver and black NHL shield would stand alone on the hems of NHL jerseys. The manufacturer’s logos are no longer present. (See examples below).

 

Replica NHL Jerseys

     All of the manufacturers that made Authentic On Ice Game Jerseys for the NHL also made replica versions so fans could have a less expensive alternative to the real thing. It is important to note that some replica manufacturers really went out of their way to make their replicas as close to authentic as possible. For example, Starter and Pro Player brand jerseys incorporated double elbows, official “Authentic On Ice” size logos (cresting), and heavyweight construction into their replicas, giving them an “On Ice” look and feel. However, no manufacturer incorporated fight straps into their replicas. (I personally feel that Pro Player jerseys are by far the best replica jerseys ever made). With the exception of today’s RBK replicas, and the multitude of CCM Vintage Series counterfeits on the market (Feebay), replicas do not have fight straps, or an NHL Shield on the hem. Replicas will usually have a manufacturer’s logo on the hem, along with one of a variety of other logos, i.e. a puck logo or small team crest. In addition, excluding early 1990’s replicas, virtually all replicas were made of Air-Knit, and were just a lighter weight than their “Authentic On Ice” cousins.

Sizing

     Keep in mind that there are scumbags out there (mostly on Feebay) that doctor up replicas to make them look like authentic jerseys so they can sell them to unsuspecting customers. In fact, there are several sellers in the Vancouver B.C. area that make a living faking jerseys and selling them on Feebay. Just remember, adding a fight strap and / or some patches and logos does not magically turn a jersey into an authentic. Remember this, authentic jerseys are sized numerically, i.e. 48, 52, 56… The two-digit number refers to the chest size. Replica jerseys are sized as follows: M, L, XL, XXL, etc… (Some hoaxers will incorporate numerical size tags into their fakes though, so be careful). If you are ever unsure of what you are buying, contact me through this blog and I will be happy to take a look at the item for you. As a collector of 20 years, I have seen every type of counterfeit and fake there is. 

     As always, I hope this post was helpful in further education some of the novice jersey collectors. My intent is to combat frauds and help honest collectors and fans everywhere. Next time on “Hockey Jersey U,” we will discuss customizing. If you want your authentic, or replica jersey to be timeline accurate, you will want to attend the next class.   
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Please be sure to visit my jersey sales sites for some great rare and vintage authentic and replica finds!  

http://goon-gear.ecrater.com/

http://www.bonanza.com/booths/goon_gear

http://www.ioffer.com/selling/goongear

http://www.upillar.com/listings/150839-2001-nhl-stanley-cup-finals-hockey-jersey-colorado-avalanche-adam-foote-52 
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Hockey Jersey U - Lesson One (Fit)

One of the biggest turnoffs for buyers of pre-owned hockey jerseys is fit. Most of us (collectors), have early on in our pursuit, purchased a jersey or two that arrived in worse than described condition. As indicated in my first post, Feebay as I like to call it, is rampant with garage sale quality garbage that is advertised as being in stellar condition. While most discerning veteran collectors are relatively adept at weeding out garbage, for less experienced collectors, potential issues regarding fit may be less obvious; thus the subject of today’s lesson at “Hockey Jersey U.” Gather around students, class is in session.

Fit:

While auction ads paint a pretty picture of the jerseys you are thinking of buying, and the pictures raise no obvious concerns, remember, most sellers make it that way on purpose so their jerseys will sell. Take it from me; you should approach every potential pre-owned jersey purchase with the same skepticism you would employ against a used car salesperson. Some used jersey sellers are simply clueless, and to them their jerseys looks fine. Others are just slimy, and knowingly misrepresent their offerings because that is the only way they can get someone to buy them. In either case, descriptions and pictures are not to be trusted on their own merit, period. If you do not want to get burned, you must ask questions. Doing so will greatly reduce your chances of ending up with something that will not fit correctly (if you wear your jerseys).

Ask this question: "Lying flat, what is the actual measurement from armpit seam to armpit seam (excluding any gussets)?" This is in my opinion the single most important question to ask, assuming the jersey is worth asking questions about. The reason is simple; jerseys should NEVER, EVER be dried in a clothes dryer, PERIOD! One time in a dryer (at ANY setting) and its ruined. Hockey jerseys shrink like no other, and MUST be air dried on a hanger! No, it is not ok to use the air / fluff setting on the dryer for the same purpose. We will discuss the reason for that another day… A jersey that has been ruined i.e. shrunk in a dryer will in most cases exhibit a distinctive bell-shape to the body of the jersey (See examples below).

If there is a huge difference between the measurement across the bottom of the jersey and the measurement from armpit seam to armpit seam, the jersey has probably been ruined in a clothes dryer. If the aforementioned measurements are not the same or VERY close to it, the jersey has shrinkage. Picture it like this… If you buy a pre-owned adult size XL jersey that normally measures 27” across the chest (total chest size 54), but it has been ruined in a dryer, it may now for example measure 24” across the chest (making it an actual total chest size of 48)! That is a total shrinkage of 6 inches! Just because the tag still says XL, do not assume that the jersey was cared for properly, most are not. In addition to having a pit-hugging fit, the shrinkage also means that the sleeves are now half way up your forearms, and the body length of the jersey is two or more inches shorter than it is supposed to be. Just remember, a jersey can be spotless and snag free yet still be ruined! A Hockey jersey should fit you roughly the same as a long sleeve shirt that is 2 or 3 sizes too big. Wearing one that fits like a regular shirt will get you laughed right out of any hockey rink in North America, so don't do it!

***TIP*** Wash each jersey by itself (i.e. alone), inside-out, in cold water, on a gentle cycle, and with light amounts of laundry soap. Following the spin cycle, turn the jersey right-side-out, grab the jersey by the shoulders and give it one sharp shake (like you would if you were shaking the dirt out of a small rug). This will remove any serious bunching. Then immediately place the jersey on a clothes hanger to air dry, out in the open (not in a closet). If you follow these instructions your jerseys will remain bright, fit correctly, and last forever! I practice what I preach. I have many jerseys in my personal collection that are 20+ years old, yet each one still looks like new!

As always, I hope this post was helpful. Please stay tuned for more lessons and tips on “Hockey Jersey U” brought to you by goon-gear.

Please be sure to visit my jersey sales sites (links below) for some great finds!
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http://goon-gear.ecrater.com/

http://www.bonanza.com/booths/goon_gear

http://www.ioffer.com/selling/goongear

http://www.upillar.com/listings/150839-2001-nhl-stanley-cup-finals-hockey-jersey-colorado-avalanche-adam-foote-52 
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First, an introduction is in order…

Hello fellow bloggers,

My Name is Scott, and I am a retired Senior Non-Commissioned Officer from the United States Air Force. My family and I live in rural S.E. Nebraska, which is also our original home

I have been buying, selling, collecting, trading, and customizing Collector-Quality NHL Authentic and replica jerseys since 1991. I am an NHL FREAK, and am particularly a big fan of past and present enforcers. Some of my all-time favorites include Tony (The Twister) Twist, Stu (The Grim Reaper) Grimson, and the late, great Bob Probert.

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My Favorite Team: New Jersey Devils!

Other teams I follow: Carolina, Chicago, San Jose, Phoenix, Nashville, St Louis, Vancouver, Minnesota, Colorado, Dallas, Montreal
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As I sell rare and vintage NHL jerseys here on the internet (on several different sites, to be mentioned later in this post), it is important to note that I am always happy to negotiate and / or trade with like-minded NHL fans and collectors. If you have a special request for a certain jersey, please let me know. If I can help I will. I do not deal in the newer RBK Edge, or Premiere jerseys, they are garbage! I only deal in high quality, high-end jerseys; CCM / KOHO, Pro Player, Sand Knit, Bauer, and Occasionally Starter brand. With the aforementioned in mind... If you are looking for garage-sale garbage at trailer-park prices, you came to the wrong place!!! I deal strictly in quality, not quantity...

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NEED CASH...??? I WILL BUY YOUR NEW OR MINT PRE-OWNED HOCKEY JERSEYS! I CAN BUY JUST ONE, OR AN ENTIRE COLLECTION! PLEASE FEEL FREE TO CONTACT ME IF YOU WISH TO SELL!

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*** NOTE *** I am a Timeline Authentic, and Replica NHL jersey (sweater) collector and seller. That means I do not slap "Mikita #21" or Messier #11, etc... on a Reebok jersey (Those really makes me laugh!), or slap an "08" or "09" Cup Patch on a CCM Red Wings jersey, or slap an NHL 75th Anniversary patch, 1992 Stanley Cup Finals Patch, or a Stanley Cup 100th Anniversary patch on an Air-Knit Blackhawks jersey, because they actually wore Ultrafil jerseys through the 92-93 season! Jersey sellers who do any of those things are FRAUDS, PERIOD!

But, if you absolutely insist on owning a jersey people will laugh at, there are plenty of ignorant sellers, hacks, and frauds out there (i.e. on eBay), who fake jerseys and randomly slap names, numbers, and patches on just anything thinking it will fly! They will be glad to take your money... Just ask me, and I will be happy to point a few out for you!

99.9% of the time, I buy, sell, collect, and trade Time-line Authentic jerseys! *** In the RARE event that I purchase, then list a jersey that is not 100% timeline accurate, it will be noted in detail in the listing ***. Some jerseys still have great value to die-hard fans like me!
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***EBAY FRAUD ALERT*** Beware Air-Knit Blackhawks jerseys with the NHL 75th Anniversary patch, 1992 Stanley Cup Finals Patch, or Stanley Cup 100th Anniversary Patch! They are FAKE! The Blackhawks did not even start wearing Air-Knit jerseys until the 93-94 season!!! - Also beware Authentic Detroit Red Wings Yzerman jerseys that are claimed to be circa 1986... The NHL Shield was not placed on the hem of authentic jerseys until 1990!!! If you see an NHL Shield on the hem of ANY BRAND of authentic NHL jersey, that jersey was NOT made before 1990, PERIOD!!! DO NOT GET BURNED!!! If you have questions or doubts about ANY hockey jersey (replica or authentic), give me a shout, I can tell you what you are dealing with without a doubt!

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Links to some of my jersey sales sites (Actual jerseys for sale):
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http://goon-gear.ecrater.com/

http://www.bonanza.com/booths/goon_gear

http://www.ioffer.com/selling/goongear

www.upillar.com

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As one of MANY eBay refugees, (those who are sick of ever-increasing fees)... Moreover, in my case, competing against fraudulent sellers who pedal Asian-Sweatshop counterfeit hockey jerseys, and / or timeline incorrect jerseys, I have decided to strike out on my own. As part of my plan to expand my customer-base, and to make a few new friends along the way, I have decided to share my love for, and knowledge of NHL hockey jerseys (sweaters) with my readers.

As a collector of 20 years, few things ERK me more than good-natured, yet unsuspecting NHL hockey jersey buyers being taken for a ride (i.e. ripped off) by the multitude of eBay scumbag sellers out there who are only concerned about making a quick buck! That is the main reason I left feebay...

In addition to shamelessly promoting my jerseys, I will be posting jersey education tidbits and advice to combat these eBay frauds and do my part to reassure prospective jersey collectors and buyers that there are still a few trustworthy NHL jersey sellers left out there to deal with. Check back often, school (Hockey Jersey U) will soon be in session!